Palau March

Palau March

Mallorca, Spain

This is the Palau March, and the first thing worth noticing is the address. It's built directly against the royal palace, a few steps from the cathedral, on the highest and most conspicuous ground in the city.

This is the Palau March, and the first thing worth noticing is the address. It's built directly against the royal palace, a few steps from the cathedral, on the highest and most conspicuous ground in the city. There is nowhere in Palma that says look at me more loudly than this plot, and a private citizen took it.

The citizen was Joan March Ordinas, and he is the most consequential Mallorcan of the twentieth century by a distance nobody enjoys.

He started with tobacco. Specifically, moving it across the Mediterranean without troubling the customs authorities, which on an island with this much coastline was a growth industry. From smuggling he moved into banking, shipping, and eventually into owning most of the things worth owning. By the nineteen thirties he was the richest man in Spain and reckoned to be among the wealthiest on earth.

The method was consistent throughout: get close to whoever holds the licence. March's real product was never tobacco or shipping, it was influence

— knowing which official to pay, which ministry to place a friend inside, which newspaper to buy when the questions started. He was elected to parliament, was jailed, and escaped, reportedly by the direct route of buying the loyalty of the man guarding him.

He was also, and this is documented rather than alleged, one of the principal financiers of the military coup that started the Spanish Civil

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Quick Facts

  • Palau March was built between nineteen thirty-nine and nineteen forty-five for Joan March Ordinas, directly beside the royal palace and the cathedral.
  • March made his first fortune smuggling tobacco across the Mediterranean and became the richest man in Spain.
  • He was one of the principal financiers of the nineteen thirty-six military coup, including the aircraft that carried Franco from the Canary Islands.
  • His descendants opened the palace as a museum in the two-thousands.
  • The terrace holds sculpture by Rodin, Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Eduardo Chillida, and the interior has ceilings painted by José María Sert.
  • The house contains an eighteenth-century Neapolitan nativity scene of more than a thousand individual figures.
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Location

Mallorca, Spain
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