You're on Main Street, at the foot of the hill, with the harbor on one side and a green park climbing toward that white fort up on the bluff. This is Mile Zero — the whole island loop starts and ends right about here. And it's the perfect place to explain the single strangest thing about where you're standing, which is the thing you already noticed and can't stop noticing: no cars.
Here's how that happened, and it's pettier than the postcards let on. In the eighteen nineties, getting around this island was a business — a fleet of horse-drawn carriages, hauling tourists up from the docks, and the men who ran those carriages had a very good thing going. Then the automobile showed up. Loud, fast, and absolutely terrifying to a horse. The carriage drivers looked at these machines and did the math, and the math said: this ends us. So in eighteen ninety-eight they went to the village council and got the automobile banned outright. Not for the environment. To protect their monopoly. And the
ban has never been lifted.
Now, you could argue they got lucky — that they banned a nuisance and it happened to make the island magical. Except we have a control experiment, because a couple of years later a wealthy summer man decided the rule didn't apply to him and brought a steam-powered automobile over on the ferry anyway. And it went exactly the way the carriage men said it would. The machin






