Chinatown Alleys

Chinatown Alleys

San Francisco, United States

Waverly Place.

Waverly Place. The Street of Painted Balconies. Look up — red, green, gold, those beautiful curved eaves. If you look at the top of the building at number one twenty-five, that's the Tin How Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in the United States. Still operating. Still burning incense. Been here since eighteen fifty-two.

In the eighteen eighties, this alley was controlled by men who settled disputes with hatchets.

The tongs were Chinese secret societies, and not all of them were criminal — many ran legitimate mutual aid organizations. But the criminal tongs controlled Chinatown's gambling, its opium trade, and its trafficking operations. When disputes broke out, they didn't negotiate. They hired highbinders — professional assassins named for binding their queues on top of their heads so opponents couldn't grab them in a fight. The weapon of choice was a hatchet. Quiet, cheap, and it fit inside a sleeve.

The most powerful tong boss in San Francisco was a man named Fung Jing Toy — kno

wn as Little Pete. And Little Pete was prepared for trouble. He wore a thirty-five-pound chain mail vest under his suit. He wore a steel-reinforced hat on his head. He carried two pistols. He traveled with two German shepherds and a personal bodyguard. He had survived an ambush in eighteen eighty-six because the bullets bounced off his armor. After that, people called him invincible.

On January t

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Quick Facts

  • Tin How Temple at 125 Waverly Place: oldest Chinese temple in US, operating since 1852
  • Little Pete (Fung Jing Toy): 35-lb chain mail vest, steel hat, 2 pistols, 2 German shepherds
  • Survived 1886 ambush (bullets bounced off armor); called invincible
  • Assassinated Jan 23, 1897 in barber chair at 817 Washington St; bodyguard sent for newspaper
  • Killers fled to Waverly Place, never caught; Pete was 30, reportedly worth $150K
  • Ross Alley: oldest alley in SF, built 1849, "Street of the Gamblers"
  • Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory at 56 Ross, since 1962, 10,000 cookies/day
  • Fortune cookies: Japanese invention (Makoto Hagiwara); 1983 court ruling on Japanese origin
  • 1875 SF opium ordinance: first anti-drug law in US; real motivation was anti-Chinese racism
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